Unhyeongung, The Hall of the Korean royal family culture. We would like to give a warm welcome to all visitors of Unhyeongung. We invite you to check out Unhyeongung and the history behind the palace, architecture, and tourist information.
Unhyeongung, designated as Historic Site No. 257 in the City of Seoul, is located in Samil-daero, Jongno-gu, Seoul. This palace used to be a Jamjeo (a temporary place for the soon-to-be monarch to stay before taking the throne) of Gojong, the 26th King of the Joseon Dynasty, and was the home of Heungseon Daewongun. Unhyeongung retains its historical importance as a base for Heungseon Daewongun's political activities during the modern Korean era. Here, the royal regime came to life. Heungseongun, Lee Haeung (Lee Ha-eung is the birth name of Heungseon Daewongun) obtained the position of leadership as Daewongun, he carried out his will to reform the government. Unhyeongung is where Lee Haeung continued to wield his political influence all throughout the palace and nation, even after his resignation from the official leadership. Unhyeongung was also a temporary residence of Gojong before he was enthroned. For these reasons, Unhyeongung holds much historical significance.
'Heungseon Daewongun', formerly called 'Heungseongun', had his private residence named 'Unhyeongung', on December 9, 1863 when the official document of nomination, called 'Kyoji' was bestowed on Heungseongun. He was officially appointed 'Daewongun', hence he is now known as Heungseon Daewongun, and his wife from the Yeoheung Min clan received the title 'Budaebuin', of which is only given to the spouse of Daewongun.
Gojong lived in Unhyeongung, previously known as 'Gwansanggam' during the reign of King Cheoljong until the age of 12. A folk song, with references to a good omen of the birth of the king dwelling upon the Unhyeongung ground, caught on, and was sung everywhere. After King Gojong came to power, Heungseon Daewongun re-expanded the existing Unhyeongung spot. 'Unhyun' from the name 'Unhyeongung' originated from the name of an uphill path in front of Seowoongwan. In the age of King Sejo, Seowoongwan was nominally renamed to Gwansanggam, its pseudonym ‘Unhyeon’, though, was more commonly used. Seowoongwan's designation, 'Ungwan', and the name, 'Unhyun', signifying the hill in front of 'Ungwan', remained in use when indicating this very spot.
In obedience to the official order from the grand queen dowager at that time, a party consisting of Yeonguijeong Kim Jwageun (equivalent to today's prime minister), Doseungji Minchisang (the chief royal secretary), Gisakwan Parkhaecheol (historian position managing chronicles), Kim Byeongik, and other members, arrived at Heungseongun's private residence in Gwanhyun. A magnificent parade of Korean Gama (a wheelless, human-powered vehicle), was brought in to respectfully welcome Gojong into the inheritance of Crown Prince Ikjong's throne. The true to life description of Heungseongun's dignified posture, appearance, and his soon-to-be-monarch second son, Myungbok's naive image upon arrival at the temporary stay called 'Jamjeo,' shows that Unhyeongung used to be Gojong's Jamjeo. After Japan's annexation of Korea in 1912, the Japanese Empire conducted a land investigation. The Imperial exchequer of Daehan Jejuk (Korean Empire) was expropriated and nationalized by the Japanese Empire. The Secretary of the Yi Dynasty was officially appointed to be in charge of maintaining Unhyeongung. Irrelevant to the ownership of the palace, Unhyeongung was maintained and managed continuously by Irodang's hosts and hostesses.
The ownership of Unhyeongung was returned to the descendent of Daewongun in 1948 in compliance with the U.S. Military government official documentation. Afterwards, a legal dispute took place between the South Korean government and the Daewongun family regarding the ownership, but on September 21st of the same year, Yi Cheong (1936-), the fifth generation of Daewongun, was officially named as an owner. About 40 years later, in 1991, it grew increasingly difficult for Mr. Yi Cheong to maintain and manage Unhyeongung. Eventually, Mr. Yi cheong expressed his intention to cede his royal property, and the ownership of Unhyeongung was purchased by the City of Seoul. In December 1993, renovation works began, and the palace was renovated, featuring its current state.
Scale of Unhyeongung
One month after Gojong acceded to the throne (December 13, 1863), at the Grand Queen Dowager's order, the construction of a new building and the extension of the existing structure began. Nine months later in September 1864, Norakdong and Noandang were completed. At the time, Grand Queen Dowager commanded Hojo (a government office where taxation was being processed) to send 10 seom of rice (Traditional Korean measurement unit / 180 liters per seom) and 100 nyang (Traditional Korean currency unit) every month. She also sent 17,830 nyangs of financial aid for the construction and expansion of Unhyeongung.
When Unhyeongung construction was done, Gojong accompanied Grand Queen Dowager and Queen Dowager to the ceremony of completion of Unhyeongung. On this day, Gojong, remembered the period in which he lived in Unhyeongung, and allowed Confucian scholars and youths, to take temporary national test called, 'Gwageoshiheom' for opportunities to become a government official. 50 Confucian scholars and 497 young talents were appointed to be awarded in celebration of the completion of the Unhyeongung construction. Previously, when Unhyeongung served as a private home for Heungseongun, Unhyeongung was located midway between Changdeokgung and Gyeongbokgung. Currently, the original Unhyeongung location is occupied by the newly constructed Unhyeongung and Duksung Women's University Lifelong education center. After the extension and re-construction, the Unhyeongung was the largest it had ever been with hundreds of meters long walls surrounding the palace and four grandiose gates (main gate, back gate, Kyungkeunmun, Kongkeunmun), full of palatial atmosphere, covering the current area of Duksung Women’s University, the former TBC Broadcasting Station, the Japanese Cultural Center, Gyodong Elementary School and Samhwa Company. The signature buildings of Unhyeongung are Norakdang and Noandang, completed in the first November of Gojong (1864) and Irodang, on the sixth year of Gojong's regime (1869). While only one gate remained now, back then, all four gates stood intact.
Norakdang is the most pivotal building of Unhyeongung. This location was used for lavish feasts such as, Hwangap (one of the most important birthday events for seniors) or various banquets. Norakdang holds up well against other palaces in its magnificence and scale despite its use for ceremonial recreation. The fact that Gojong, who attended the celebration of completing the construction, directed Daejaehak (a position of a government official) Kim Byeonghak, to commemorate the day of completion by composing a description of Norakdang called 'Norakdanggi (老樂堂記)' implies the great importance Norakdang carries. Back then, Kim Byeonghak, wrote that the distance between Norakdang and the Heaven can be measured in 5 Hanja (traditional logograms) characters. Though this expression may be an overstatement, its implicit depiction speaks volumes for how Heungseon Daewongun was in possession of sky-high power.
The power of Daewongun and political authority shown through Unhyeongung can be found in another instance that happened on the third year of Gojong’s regime, March 21, 1866, when Gojong and Queen Myeongseong performed their royal wedding ceremony in Unhyeongung. All wedding plans were made in Norakdang. At that time, for a royal marriage ceremony, a retinue of 1,641 servants and 700 swift horses were all brought into the wedding ceremony. Assuming that all of the horses and servants had to pass through Unhyeongung, its superb scale can easily be guessed. Noandang, however, housed the exiled Daewongun. After being released from abduction by the Qing Dynasty during 'Imogunran' (military coup), Daewongun lived a hidden life of an exile here, while the government was under Yeoheung Min clan's control. He spent the last days of his life in a small room located behind Noandang.
Noandang is a typical Korean tile-roofed house. It has delicate and beautifully angled roof tops, called ‘Choonyo’. The Sangryangmun (A Ceremonial Writing that blesses the completion of base construction) of Noandang, discovered on May 27, 1994 during renovation, indicates the origin of the name of this building, along with the title and political position of Daewongun.
According to the writings from the Sangryangmun, the title of Daewongun was ‘hapha (閤下 / head of every government and military matters).’ ‘Hapha’ was the highest position right after ‘Jeonha (殿下 / a king).’ The name Noandang came from the Confucian passage: 'Noja rests peacefully here'. This passage from Sangryangmun best expresses the authority of Daewongun when Norakdang and Noandang were being built.
The architecture of the four gates that surround Unhyeongung is as significant as Norakdang in its symbolism of Daewongun's authority. In its heyday, the four gates of Unhyeongung called Jeongmun (front gate), Humun (back gate), Kyeonggeunmun, and Gonggeunmun enclosed the palace. Currently, only the Humun remains. Gyeonggeunmun, located between Changdeokgung and Unhyeongung, was used for King Gojong to enter Unhyeongung. When Gojong became a king at the age of twelve, his head secretaries gave their careful consideration into the king's convenience and decided to build two more gates, Kyeonggeunmun and Gonggeunmun, financed by the royal family. Historical records show that King Gojong gave Hojopanseo (Head of Hojo taxation office) Lee Donyeong a promotion to recognize his efforts. Gonggeunmun was a gate exclusive for Daewongun when he frequented the palace. Today, both Gonggeungmun and Kyeonggeunnum are destroyed, with only the foundations left at the site next to the Japanese Cultural Center.
Daewongun and Unhyeongung
The political life of Daewongun and the ups and downs of Unhyeongung are inseparably related. For that reason, the historical preservation value of Unhyeongung can be interpreted in the same context of the significant share of Korean modern history accounted for by the importance of Daewongun. Before Daewongun came to power, a temporary stay (Jamjeo) of Gojong, Unhyeongung looked simple to the point of lacking the magnificence of royal dignity. However, for the first ten years since King Gojong's enthronement, the splendor of Unhyeongung started to bear a strong resemblance to that of a royal palace. When Daewongun's immense political status reached its peak, Unhyeongung's signature building Norakdang, Noandang, and the four grandiose gates of Unhyeongung were so magnificent that atmospheric solemnity permeates through their appearances. Upon them, the main building of Unhyeongung, Norakdang stands. The construction completion ceremony of Unhyeongung was attended by Gojong and the Grand Queen Dowager. The wedding ceremony of King Gojong and Queen Myeongseong were all held here in Norakdang, further signfying the great importance of this building.
After Daewongun stepped down from his power, Unhyeongung also gradually lost its grandiosity. During Daewongun’s incarceration in Qing Dynasty China after Imogunran (on the 19th year of Gojong's regime, discrimination and unpaid wages in support of reformed forces triggered the existing old-fashioned soldiers to mutiny), Unhyeongung was hardly maintained due to financial difficulties. When Daewongun again gained control of his authority, Unhyeongung also was revived. Historically, Daewongun returned to power twice. The first return lasted 33 days after Imogunran (July 23, 1882. - August 26, 1882.) The second return lasted 4 months during Donghak Peasants' Revolution (July 23, 1894. – November 22, 1894.) Although these two cases differ in the underlying motivations and the historical backgrounds on regaining political control, both of these governmental returns were supported by the general public.
Early in Heungseon Daewongun's reign, a focus on governmental reform established his emphasis on transparency in official personnel policy, playing a big role in his administrative return. Principles based on equal opportunities to be nominated for official positions irrespective of societal status, embracing dissatisfied public groups, were consistently applied throughout the government system.
During the Donghak Revolution, Daewongun already maintained a close relationship with locals. While the government under the Yeoheung Min clan, Qing China, and Japan defined the uprising of the Donghak army as rioting, Heungseon Daewongun viewed the rebellion as a kind of societal revolutionary movement. He had a positive perception about the Donghak army to the degree of predicting the revolutionary movement of such, would also arise in Seoul. However, his return to leadership by the time of the uprising was made possible by the interconnection of a strategy on Japan's side to independently enforce overthrowing the government under Yeoheung Min clan's control, reforming the internal affairs of the Joseon Dynasty, and Daewongun's strong will to take political control. After Daewongun's return to power, public support served as a bedrock that gave critical assistance to plans to expel Japanese soldiers.
For the first 10 years of Gojong's inauguration, Swaeguk Jeongchaek (national isolation policy where trading with other countries is prohibited) was rare to be found within the period of Daewongun's return to government authority. When Japan presented an unfair deal as a condition to end Imogunran, the Qing Dynasty asked the Joseon government to accept the deal and give into Japan’s dishonest plot for a solution to the incident. Daewongun, in return, displayed a strong yet diplomatic attitude towards foreign policy. To Japan's outrageous demands, he showed his will to fight against it, to the point of considering waging a war against Japan. Meanwhile, he presented problem-solving strategies by delaying the date of final decision for the cooperation with Qing Dynasty. Nevertheless, Daewongun did not take the brokered deal from Qing Dynasty to concede to demands of Japan. His foreign policy may look diplomatic, but in reality, his rigid attitude towards foreign powers did not change. However, in later days of Daewongun, his foreign policy, rather than blindly following the cause of defending the country from foreign intruders, shifted in a more practical direction as he regained power during the Donghak Revolution.
After the Qing-Japan War broke out, Daewongun, who had plans to oust the Japanese army, attempted to cooperate with the Qing Army, stationed in Pyeongyang. This negotiation was beneficial for both the Qing and Joseon Dynasty, since at that time, Qing was at war and Joseon was being forced into government reform. Japan also aimed to build a positive international opinion on Japan's invasion and colonization of the Joseon Dynasty. Daewongun precisely knew Russia's ambition to rule Joseon to the extent of predicting Russia's involvement when Qing and Japan dispatched their own troops. Therefore, Daewongun approached Russia first to seek cooperation to keep Japan in check. As a matter of fact, Russia, in secrecy, mediated Qing and Japan and then presented trilateral cooperation, indicating its intention to be involved in Joseon. In addition to Russia, Daewongun contacted the United Kingdom and the United States although the diplomacy yielded nothing significant. The United Kingdom did not want the Sino-Japanese War to break out on the Korean peninsula. Subsequently, the UK also began carrying out a confidential mediation plan for the Korean peninsula to be divided and occupied by Qing and Japan separately. By organizing meetings with diplomatic representatives in Joseon, Daewongun attempted to actively engage in diplomatic relations. However, government under Yeoheung Min Clan's control had reached the peak of its incompetence and corruption. Under the abysmal condition, it was impossible to expect any international cooperation with Joseon government. Daewongun noticed the corrupt state of government and came up with plans to eliminate pro-Japanese members of Gaehwa party (a progressive party of Joseon) and form a renewed government. However, due to the so-called ‘Lee Jun-Yong treason incident’, he eventually stepped down from his position of leadership.
